Bravery ornaments

Goat's beard ornament, Pokot people, Kenya

Ivory arm-ring, Boran people, Kenya

Wooden necklace, Zulu people, South Africa

Top: Collected by Jean Brown and purchased from her in 1978; 1978.20.145–146
Middle: Collected by P.T.W. Baxter 1951–1953, and donated in 1953; 1953.8.19
Bottom: Collected by Mary Kennedy or James Andrew Kennedy 1879–1880, and donated by Mary Kennedy in 1941; 1941.12.57Although warrior status can be conferred upon a young man automatically as he reaches adulthood, this is rare. Usually this prestigious status must be earned by performing an act of bravery, or by distinguishing oneself in a battle, expedition or hunt.

This ornament is made out of the fresh hair of two goats' beards and is worn on the forehead along with a set of twisted strings of goat-hide around the waist, arms, ankles and knees. The assemblage is worn by a Pokot man to mark the first time he kills an enemy. The Pokot are a pastoral tribe of the Baringo and Western Pokot districts of Kenya and Uganda. They have a rich culture of decorative body adornment encompassing beads, hairstyling, body paint, tooth avulsion and scarification. A series of ceremonies mark both male and female transitions in the rigidly organised Pokot society. Circumcision at puberty is the most important but after this, a young man must still pass up the hierarchical age-set system that is divided into two major groups: the Zebras, who wear brass-coloured ornaments, and the Rocks, who wear copper-coloured ornaments. Both the Zebras and Rocks consist of several 'colour' sections and sub-sets. In a series of seasonal dances, feasts and ceremonies, the young men honour the more senior men with ostrich feathers, meat and beer and in return the elders bestow teaching and consider whether to grant the man the privileges of a higher set or colour. Killing an enemy was a prestige event and certain to secure advancement, although the Pokot do not practise these traditions and customs as much today.

In the centre is an armlet known locally as a lukoso or arbora. It is made of hippopotamus tusk ground down flat and cut into three pieces, joined with rivets made of cow-horn. To earn the right to wear up to four of these ornaments on the upper right arm, a man had to perform a similar act of bravery as the Pokot by killing an enemy or a large, dangerous animal like a lion or an elephant. Plain ivory arm rings were used as markers of status in many parts of Africa as the valuable ivory suggested prosperity and also prowess in hunting. This type, made and worn by the Akamba and Boran peoples of Kenya, is now quite rare.

Further south in Africa, this wooden necklace, known as iziqu or 'Bravery Necklace' was presented to a Zulu warrior as a reward for valour in battle. The Zulu Kingdom was formed by King Shaka (c. 1787–1828) and through his reforms and tactical innovations he transformed the Zulu into a formidable military force. His system was based upon the bonding of unmarried men by age. From the age of six boys could be apprenticed as warriors, carrying rations and supplies, until they officially became full warriors at the age of 18. The young men developed a strong identity as a 'regiment' with distinctively coloured cowhide shields and regalia of furs and feathers. They were armed with a short stabbing spear and a club, both suitable for close combat. At the age of 40 warriors were allowed to retire and marry.

In terms of military decoration, the iziqu necklace was second only to the ingxotha or 'brass Bravery Armband'. Unlike most other military traditions, where medals are bestowed upon the recipient, the Zulu warrior creates the iziqu himself. After being identified by the king as having distinguished himself in battle, the warrior is granted permission to create a necklace to be worn as a mark of valour. The design, the carving of the beads (usually out of the wood of the thorn tree), and the stringing of the necklace are all done by the warrior himself. The Isandlwana Monument, installed in 1999 to mark the 120th anniversary of the famous Zulu victory over British forces in 1879, is composed of a giant bronze cast iziqu laid on a circular concrete plinth in the attacking pincer formation of the Zulu military. Around the plinth, resting on pillars, are four traditional Zulu head rests, each representing one of the four Zulu regiments that took part in the battle.