Occupational ornaments

Barber's necklace, India

Soldier's badge, China

[b]Top:[/b] Collected and donated by W. Crooke in 1891; 1891.28.51[br][b]Bottom:[/b] Collected by G. Rigaud and donated by J. Rigaud in 1887; 1887.26.22Top: Collected and donated by W. Crooke in 1891; 1891.28.51
Bottom: Collected by G. Rigaud and donated by J. Rigaud in 1887; 1887.26.22
This necklace is made of wooden beads, delicately incised with a crosshatched pattern. It was collected in India in the late 19th century, where it was worn by a barber. In the Hindu traditions of India, people's occupations are governed by a hierarchical caste system. Only members of the Mangali (Nayee Brahmin) caste could be barbers, and so this necklace acted not only as an indicator of a particular profession, but also of that person's social status.

Mangali barbers travelled from village to village, often paid in grain or even land, as well as receiving tips. Traditionally only men could cut the hair of other men, and women could only cut the hair of other women. Whilst this is still the case in many rural areas, it is less strictly enforced in city areas.

All round the world, members of military organisations wear certain clothes and badges. This silver badge belonged to a Chinese soldier, worn to denote his rank and regiment. In the 19th century during the Qing dynasty, the Manchu garrisons of the provinces and in quarters of the larger cities were separate from other Han Chinese units, with their own uniforms and structure. The Manchus were classified into eight ranks, each symbolised by a different real or mythical animal. The quilin, a hoofed scaly creature possessed of great wisdom, was depicted on badges worn by officials of the first rank, whilst those on the lowest ranks were represented by a rhinoceros or sea-horse. The Xinhai Revolution of 1911 overturned such military traditions, and the garrisons themselves. This badge was collected much earlier by Major-General Gibbes Rigaud. His regiment, the Kings Royal Rifles Corps, took part in the offensive against the Taku Forts along China's Hai Rivers in 1859–60 (part of the Second Opium War), so he may have acquired it around this time.

A person's profession, be it barber, soldier or anything else, can be a large part of their identity and often the profession is obvious from their outward appearance. Many of those in military, service or public safety industries are required to wear a certain type of uniform but occasionally professional identities can be more idiosyncratic. In Germany, for example, many carpenters still observe an old tradition by spending part of their apprenticeship travelling on foot around the country, lodging with different masters and learning from them. These roving carpenters can be recognised by their flared corduroy trousers, corduroy waistcoats, broad-brimmed hats and a single earring. In 18th-century Britain, when wigs were fashionable for both men and women, there were particular wigs for certain occupations such as doctors or clergymen. This tradition has survived in courtrooms, where judges and barristers still wear gowns and horsehair wigs when appropriate.


© 2011 - The Pitt Rivers Museum, University of Oxford, England